Important: Winding torsions is not part of the normal
installation procedure for this awning. The following
procedure is only done if the torsion tension has been
Use extreme care. Springs under tension are
dangerous. If not controlled they will unwind
quickly. Keep hands and clothing clear of top
casting, as personal injury may result.
Wind The Torsion
1. Torsions are to be wound with the awning in the near
closed position. Open awning just far enough to be able
to rotate the top casting on FRTA (approximately 2").
2. Remove the bolt and lift the top casting out of the arm.
3. Turn the top casting the number of turns specified in the
awning size chart, and carefully insert it back into the
arm. Reinstall the bolt. Repeat for other side. See FIG.
Note: When facing the awning, the top casting on the
RIGHT is to be turned COUNTER-CLOCKWISE. See FIG.
7B. The top casting on the left is to be turned CLOCKWISE.
See FIG. 7C.
Awning Size: 30"-48" 54" 60" 66"-84"
Turns: 9 10 11 12
Awning Size: 90"-123" 126"-144" 156"-192"
Turns: 13 14 16
Carefree of Colo
For Super Sport awnings that are 10' (measured from center of arm
to center of arm) and over there are two springs, one on the travel
lock side (front or right), and one on the non-travel lock side (rear or
left). If the Super Sport awning is under 10', then it will only have one
spring on the travel lock side. Skip to Step 2 if the awning is under 10'.
A. If the Super Sport has lost spring tension, then it is impossible to
know which side has lost the tension; therefore, you must treat both
sides as if they are under spring tension to prevent injury. While the
camper top is still down, roll down the awning 4 revolutions (about
half way down). Release the rear arm from the bottom bracket U-bolt
by lifting up on the carport foot. Remember this arm may or may not
be under spring tension so it will work best if someone holds the roll
bar while the arm is tested for spring tension. If there is spring
tension, replace the arm and move to Step 2. If there is no spring
tension, then rotate the arm 8 winds in a clock-wise direction while
facing the rear of the awning. Now replace the arm in the U-bolt, and
roll up the awning by holding the pull strap and pulling up on the lock
lever. Skip Step 2 if there is enough spring tension on the awning,
other wise complete Step 2 if there is not enough spring tension on
2. While the camper top is still down, roll down the awning 4 turns
(about half way down). Release the front arm from the bottom bracket
U-bolt by lifting up on the carport foot. Remember this arm may or
may not be under spring tension so it will work best if someone holds
the roll bar while the arm is tested for spring tension. To test for spring
tension, release the travel lock lever by pulling up on the lever. If there
is spring tension, push down on the lock lever to re-engage the lock
and replace the arm. If there is no spring tension, push down on the
lock lever to re-engage the lock, and then rotate the arm 8 winds
(6' to 9'-6" SS's) or 14 winds (10' to 12' SS's) in a counter-clock wise
direction while facing the front of the awning. Now replace the arm in
the U-bolt, and roll up the awning by holding the pull strap and pulling
up on the lock lever.
Here is another on the carefree that i borrowed from another site.
Has anyone else had this problem?
We went looking for the problem. It seems that the spring tension was not enough to roll the awning up into the stowed position.
BTW .... It's a two-man job. One person to support the aluminum awning tube and another to remove and reassemble the bolt, spacers & nut.
First we removed the 1/4"- 20 Acorn Nut and 1/4"- 20 X 2-1/4" bolt, and spacers that holds the FRONT end arm to the bracket on the side-wall of the slide. The arm slides into the awning roller and we found out, it is "free wheeling". It just acts as a pivot point for the awning tube. No spring there!
Next, we went to the REAR bracket/arm assembly. After removing the (same as above) Acorn Nut, spacers and Bolt, we could feel the tension of the spring on the arm.
We rotated the arm "against" the tension of the spring two (2) 360 degree turns and tried to retract the awning. It helped, but seemed to be slightly less tension, than we wanted. We removed the bolt again and gave it one (1) more 360 degree turn to increase the spring tension. That seemed to do the trick. It rewinds the awning just fine now.
Removing the bolt, rotating the arm and reassembling the bolt, acorn nut and plastic spacers is easier than drilling out the "blind rivets" and trying to increase the spring tension by rolling the awning tube. And safer, too.